Maps 171,161, 160, 147, 135, 124 and 115: The Cambrian Way – an epic adventure over the mountains of Wales

1 – 21 May 2024

This has been described as “the mountain connoisseurs’ walk” from Cardiff Castle in South Wales to Conwy Castle in the North. It involves a crossing of many of the most remote and mountainous parts of Wales. Although the route is waymarked in places, chiefly in and near the towns and villages, the mountain areas are not usually waymarked and many of the paths are faint, unclear and easily confused with animal trails. In particular, in the northern parts, the route involves some scrambling up rocks. I was armed with the Cicerone Guide, printouts from the walk website of the relevant OS maps at 1:25,000 scale, lightweight Harvey’s maps of the Black Mountains, Brecons and South and North Snowdonia. I also had my Satmap GPS and, of course, a Silva compass. As I was to discover, apart from the physical walk, navigation and wayfinding were to prove significant challenges. Moreover, I was carrying a heavy pack including camping equipment as I camped for eleven nights on the trail.

I had pre booked all my non camping nights and most of the camping ones so I was committed to keep up with my schedule. This proved to be difficult. I had assumed that I would keep up the pace stated in the Cicerone Guide, but I was soon to find out that this pace was optimistic and didn’t allow for time to navigate or sufficient time for me to cross rough ground. Hence I had some very long days!

I would consider this walk to have been the most challenging I have completed in UK – more difficult than the Cape Wrath Trail. It was truly an epic expedition.

Map 171 – Cardiff to north of Pontypool

I arrived in Cardiff the afternoon before I was due to start. It was raining – “typical of Wales!” I thought. However the days to come actually disproved this folklore. I dumped my belongings in my room at the very convenient and reasonably priced Sandringham Hotel where I had booked to stay overnight: https://www.sandringham-hotel.com/ and went to explore Bute Park, the exterior of the imposing castle and the start point for the next day. In the past I had been here at the end of the final stage of the gruelling Welsh Castles Relay run and one memorable year I had even been running that last “glory” leg into Cardiff.

In the evening I met school friend Ann and her husband Andrew for a meal at the Cardiff based Italian restaurant group Giovannis https://giovanniscardiff.co.uk/restaurants/giovannis-on-the-hayes. Definitely recommend this one! We lingered over our meal, sharing reminisces and I heard about their recent amazing adventures in China.

Next morning I was off for my 16 mile or so walk to Machen. The rain had stopped and not due to recommence until late afternoon. The trek started easily enough with a flat stroll following the banks of the River Taff and passing the impressive and peaceful Lllandaff Cathedral and Cathedral Close.

The complicated looking arrangement of footbridges and underpasses to cross the busy M4 motorway intersection worked amazingly well – much more straightforward doing it than reading the instructions.

After that it wasn’t long before I met my first significant gradient of the walk, up to the fairy-tale-style Castell Coch. This is a Victorian castle built on the foundations of a Norman castle.

The uphill continued even higher than the castle which itself is perched high above the village. my legs definitely weren’t ready for this with me carrying my weighty rucksack! I just had to hope that things would improve with time ready for the assault on the 3,000 footer mountains in the final few days of the walk.

I passed the “Three Bears'” mine deep in the woods and then stopped to look at some wood sculptures, part of a sculpture trail.

The pungent aroma of wild garlic and the visual delights of huge numbers of bluebells carpeting the ground were frequent. Several people mentioned the large number of bluebells this year.

A more open area near a disused quarry afforded grand views over Caerphilly and the distant Brecon Beacons beyond.

Eventually I arrived at my overnight destination in Machen. I was booked to stay in an Air B+B in one of the more modern houses in this old mining village. Thanks to my very kind host, Sally.

It certainly poured with rain in the evening and overnight and was still drizzling in the morning. This stage marked the first tastes of mountain scenery. There was a steep climb to start the day – up to Mynydd Machen (362m). Sadly I was in the cloud so there was no view.

I had to descend immediately to Risca / Crosskeys and then there was a steep upward climb on a road which became a track then a path. Cattle near the path all seemed docile which was fortunate. I touched a road briefly (part of the Cwmcarn Forest Drive). The information board explained that the nearest A&E was at the controversial new Grange Hospital. The A&E was initially designated for serious incidents with patients arriving by ambulance, but of course the public voted with their feet and turned up there anyway with more minor emergencies and the department soon needed to be redesigned and extended to accommodate this footfall. However little wonder if information boards explain that is the hospital to visit locally for emergency care.

There was even more hill to climb to the summit of Twmbarlwm, where there are remains of an Iron Age hillfort together with a later Norman motte-and-bailey castle. Despite the lack of view in this damp cloudy weather, I met a couple of people with a dog who had also made the climb and were near the summit.

Route finding along the ridge would have been straightforward if the visibility had been better. However, I missed the turning I should have taken off the ridge and had to cut down to my path along rough paths and animal tracks.

Eventually I emerged on to a minor road and then a track and a further minor road, descending almost to the centre of Pontypool just as young people from the local secondary school had reached the end of their school day. Fortunately I had researched a route from there to my hotel other than the walking route along the busy dual carriageway which was what was offered by Google Maps. This turned out to be a bit of a maze but included sections of canal towpath and was off road all the way to the busy roundabout where my hotel, a Premier Inn, numerous fast food outlets, a petrol station and a Harvester pub were located.

The walk the following morning began by reversing my trek along the canal towpath and then entering Pontypool Park through its ornate Grade 2 listed gates, climbing up to the Shell Grotto (also Grade 2 listed). It was constructed originally in the eighteenth century as a summer house for the Hanbury family of iron masters who owned the park. The grotto was closed but apparently has a magnificent fan vaulted ceiling. I read that the pillars and ceiling are covered with thousands of shells interspersed with minerals and real stalactites removed from local caves.

A further climb within the park led to The Folly, built in the eighteenth century on the site of a Roman watchtower. It was demolished in 1940 to prevent its use by enemy bombers as a landmark but was rebuilt in the 1990s.

I turned the wrong way to leave the park, but eventually found my way out on to a track leading to a trig point at 425m near the summit of Mynydd Garn-wen, where there were good views despite the rain.

Map 161 – North of Pontypool to quarry near Cwar-yr Hendre

I’ve already had an adventure on this map – going into The Big Pit mine near Blaenavon. However this is the map that includes the Black Mountains and I was on it for the rest of the walk to Abergavenny, then two full days completing a loop to Crickhowell via Capel-y-ffin on some superb mountain ridges and part of a further day past Crickhowell to the edge of the Brecon Beacons.

It began inauspiciously with me losing the poorly defined path on the ridge and wandering too far to the west. However I corrected my direction, eventually arriving at a minor road across the moor. This I crossed and traversed a further area of boggy moorland to arrive at the car park for the grave of the horse Foxhunter, a showjumper that gained Britain’s only gold medal at the 1952 Olympic Games.

There’s a clear path to Blorenge, at 559m the highest point of the walk so far. The best views are from 800m north of the summit over the steep edge towards the town of Abergavenny and across to Sugar Loaf and the Black Mountains.

The preferred descent to avoid a badly eroded steep path was rather a circuitous but scenic route via the Punchbowl.

Eventually the route headed directly towards Abergavenny down a steep narrow valley then through a tunnel under both the Monmouthshire and Brecon Canal and a house that’s next to the canal.

My main problem on arriving at Abergavenny was crossing the busy A road in order to walk on the pavement over the Usk bridge before turning off to walk through riverside parkland and uphill to the castle ruins and the town.

I headed to Mountain Warehouse, where I’d planned to buy dried food and a second canister of gas for my stove, especially having realised that I was not going to be in Crickhowell during the opening hours for the independently owned outdoor shop there. Sadly although the gas was available, the food is only available via their on-line store. I had to go for the alternative option of a bag of couscous from the supermarket and various protein options to add to it.

My overnight accommodation at Park Lane Rooms was superb and much better than I had expected, featuring an amazing shower and some surprise treats in the fridge. Margaret was an extremely helpful host too https://www.parklanerooms.co.uk/.

I aimed to reach Capel-y-Finn without resorting to use of my GPS. With four camping nights ahead of me I was keen to conserve the batteries. The day dawned with sun. I left at 07.45 which I thought was reasonably early but in fact turned out to be one of my later departure times. My pack was heavy with the food I had bought.

I followed the instructions in the Cicerone Guide as well as looking at the 1:25,000 route map print offs and the lightweight Harvey’s map. The views as I climbed were awesome and improving. I saw a couple of other walkers as I climbed and some deer in the distance. I was at the Sugar Loaf summit by 10am (596m – the highest point so far).

For a few short moments I had the summit to myself until a couple of youths, a runner and then a few other small groups arrived in rapid succession.

The downward path on the north east side was easy to find so I began to descend. I was soon overtaken by a couple who were fastpacking and planning to travel 30 miles on foot that day. Soon after that, I turned down the wrong path but realised before long, when I pulled my compass out of my pocket, that it didn’t fit with my direction of travel. I retraced my steps and returned to my route.

At the tiny hamlet of Forest Coal Pit, I followed a boggy and overgrown path – a time consuming way to avoid a very small stretch of virtually traffic-free road walking. The route then turned off up a narrow lane that was a dead end for motor vehicles. A car soon squeezed past me but it wasn’t long before it returned back down the hill and waited in one of the wider parts of the road for me to get past. Later I found out why they were so kind to me – I met the car occupants walking towards me that afternoon and they explained about their wrong turning. The road eventually turned into a track and then a path but still continued uphill. I spotted many ponies with young foals, still wobbly on their feet.

I reached Carreg Ddial, the remains of a cross commemorating the murder of Richard Fizz Gilbert de Clare, Marcher Lord, who was ambushed and killed by Iorwerth ab Owain’s men of Gwent in 1136 following a dispute after he had demanded more land in Wales.

Eventually I could see a hill top with an impressive cairn – this was Garn Wen, where I stopped for lunch and to take in the awesome views.

After lunch, I enjoyed an impressive ridge walk over Bal Mawr and Chwarel y Fan (679m and the high point of the walk to date). Across the valley to the west, I could see some of the ridge line I would be walking the next day and to the east the ridge carrying the Offa’s Dyke path. As I began to descend on the ridge I met groups of people who were already camping in Capel-y-ffin. I hoped there would be room for me as I had contacted the pony trekking centre who own the campsite but not received a reply.

Eventually my path left the ridge to descend more steeply to the small village (still nearly 330m above sea level). The campsite reception is on the route. Various options for camping were available. I decided to camp at the far end of a field where some Gold D of E Award candidates would be siting their tents. The other options were further from the water tap and there were horses in that field too.

It was muddy – I might have guessed as D of E campsites always seem to be muddy! I visited the nearby chapel but just looked at the outside as I could hear people chanting inside.

The next morning the weather continued to be dry. However I knew that rain was forecast for late afternoon so I woke early and was away by 07.00am. A steep stretch of uphill began as soon as I left the village. I was overtaken by a male backpacker who appeared to be walking almost twice as fast as I was. Fine views opened up very quickly.

I reached Lord Hereford’s Knob (Twmpa) – 690m and the high point so far. There were magnificent views over the edge of the steep escarpment to the west.

The scramble on the eroded downward path mentioned in my Cicerone Guide has been replaced by steps, making the descent much easier than in the past. I was soon at the summit of Rhos Dirion – a new high point at 713m and the head of the Chwarel y Fan ridge I had walked along the previous day until turning off for Capel-y-ffin.

I thought I was already at Waun Fach but then realised it was still some way ahead of me. That was where I managed to pull a strap on my rucksack and snap a clip – fortunately just one holding the floating lid in place and not affecting the structural integrity of the bag. Incidentally this has now been repaired by Osprey under their amazing All Mighty Guarantee Service – an amazingly rapid and efficient set-up – even though I thought the problem was my own fault and offered to pay for the repair.

Eventually however I did reach Waun Fach, at 811m the highpoint of the walk to date and in fact the highest point on the Black Mountains. It was relatively crowded.

My route continued to follow the ridge to Pen Trumau and Mynydd Llysiau where I dropped a few feet down into a shelter to eat lunch. The weather was changing – it was more windy and the clouds were building. I spotted two boundary marker stones mentioned in the Cicerone Guide as being just off the path.

I reached Pen Allt-mawr, taking care to follow the SSE ridge to descend slightly then reascend to Pen Cerrig-calch.

There was a long decent from here (701m) down initially stony paths then grassy terrain to around 420m. I stopped for a brief rest and drink. A family passing with a dog warned me of ticks – they had removed many from their dog. The young son was complaining of blisters – and the first aid kit was in the car. However the blisters didn’t seem to be impeding him!

The weather was definitely worsening so I circumnavigated the Iron Age Hillfort on Table Mountain to save time and followed signed footpaths to reach the road near Crickhowell, eventually reaching my booked campsite at about 4pm.

I went to reception as instructed but there was no-one there and the voice mail when I phoned advised booking via the website! Notices said not to pitch without registering – but I had booked, was there at the allotted time, there was no one around and the rain was getting worse. Moreover I needed to get to the convenience shop to buy some food before they closed. Fortunately some caravan and camper van customers helped me out and advised me where the tent campers usually pitched – next to an amazing shelter with washing lines and picnic benches and close to the amenity block. That was fortunate so I pitched my tent, left messages for the owner and went shopping. The rain became even worse but I kept beautifully dry, even taking the opportunity to air my sleeping bag. No one else was tent camping or using the shelter. Unbelievably the key opener on my corned beef tin broke – but a really helpful couple lent me a tin opener – using this and my small pen knife I managed to extract the meat from the tin. The owner arrived eventually during the evening – and was relieved that I had made myself at home. I’m sure Alex gave me a discount as he only charged me £10 for such excellent facilities. I definitely recommend this site for backpackers: https://riversidecaravanscrickhowell.co.uk/ It’s superb value, very quiet, brilliant facilities and the other customers are amazingly helpful.

I was a bit concerned (to say the least) about the walk the following day – a mammoth 21 miles with 1720m ascent predicted in my guidebook to take 12.5 hours; I had also already realised that if I had any route finding issues then this time would be optimistic. Moreover the Brecon Beacons forecast warned of rain with a real although fairly low risk of thunderstorms later in the day. I spent the evening studying the maps and route; I realised that it was possible to decrease some potentially difficult route finding, some distance and a small amount of ascent by following what appeared to be a quiet road for the first part of the walk (at least it should be quiet early on a Bank Holiday Monday). The price was that I would miss one of the nominal “checkpoints” for the walk – a cave called Eglwys Faen.

Having made my decisions, I slept well but was up by 05.00am. I made full use of the facilities especially as no one else was up. I dressed in the shower block, hung up my towel and sleeping bag to dry and took my wet tent down. I hung the tent on the undercover washing line as I cooked and ate breakfast. This meant that I left at 07.00am with kit that was well on the way to being dry, despite the overnight rain.

The “quiet” road was indeed quiet on this Bank Holiday morning with only a dozen or so cars, an ambulance, two supermarket delivery vans and a small convoy of army trucks during the two hours or so I spent walking along it.

It was misty and still misty when I reached the end of the road walk and set a compass bearing to reach a trig point.

Some Army soldiers were walking towards me each carrying a large rucksack. I stopped and spoke to a couple of Officers who were manning a checkpoint. They commended me for walking with a large pack but I said that I thought their men were carrying much more than I was – agreed but they are only in their 20s! They also reassured me about my plan to wild camp that evening – an individual backpacking, setting up camp late, leaving early and leaving no trace apparently isn’t a target for the National Park wardens. Somehow I missed the Chartist Cave in the excitement of meeting the Army team – although I passed close to it.

Map 160 – Quarry near Cwar-yr Hendre to Rhandimyrwyn Bridge

I reached the minor road to a disused quarry and followed the instructions in my Cicerone Guide. All went well until I hit a footpath diversion. To be fair, I think I had missed a path. This cost me considerable time and effort to get back on to the route. I climbed over a large area of open moorland to reach the trig point eventually at Pant y Creigiau and then dropped to a road.

It was a stiff climb up from the car park to Craig y Fan Ddu (683m). Unfortunately I missed the sharp turn on the path and continued to follow the more obvious path along the ridge; however I realised before too long and retraced my steps to take a relatively faint path, albeit part of the Beacons Way to Craig Cwareli. I omitted the optional ascent of Fan y Big.

The cloud appeared to be descending intermittently and I was aware of the risk of rain near the end of the day. Hence with Pen y Fan in sight, I bypassed Cribyn on a clear track as I didn’t want to miss Pen y Fan, a new high point for the walk at 886m as well as being one of the nominal checkpoints for the walk. Amazingly I was the only person on the summit, even though there were still many people out on the mountains. I wasn’t in cloud and enjoyed the views.

I decided to bypass Corn Du (873m) even though it would only have added another 25m of vertical ascent and descent and very little extra horizontal distance. This must have been an inspired decision as suddenly the conditions changed and I was in the middle of a hail and rain shower. It wasn’t a good time to get the zips jammed on my waterproofs as I did. Some walkers in full waterproofs rushed past me closely followed by a motley crowd of people wearing blue jeans, trainers and worse.

Neither was it the right time to go and search for the Tommy Jones obelisk so I escaped off the mountain, overtaking the ill clad walkers. Unfortunately this wasn’t the path that I had intended to use to descend the mountain, heading to the car park south east of the Storey Arms rather than that next to that old pub – now an outdoor centre with facilities unavailable to individuals.

As I descended, the weather improved again – it had just been a shower and there was no sign of thunder and lightning. I decided to cut across the relatively gently sloping mountainside towards the streams and try to find a quiet spot to camp. This was at least returning towards my planned route and setting me up for the start of my walk the next day.

I think my eventual camping spot was better than the one I had planned, albeit not so near to the direct path for the next morning. It was indeed fortunate that I had omitted some of the potentially difficult walking early on in the day as it was 7.30pm by the time I was setting up camp.

The next day was dry. I saw a walker in the distance descending on the path I should have been on. I cut across but struggled to find any paths other than animal tracks. It took me an hour to reach Storey Arms.

From the road opposite the Storey Arms, a faint path led uphill. I turned off after what I thought was the correct distance – I had counted steps but mine must have been small steps and I hadn’t gone far enough! – as I found myself heading up Fan Fawr rather than round it. Unfortunately I didn’t find any decent paths at all going the way I needed on this section of the moor. To be fair, the Cicerone guide had warned me but also said that it was just a case of getting across the open moorland in roughly the correct position. This I achieved although I did come across a fence that wasn’t crossable and had to follow it down to the road. There is an unusual standing stone, thought to date to the Bronze Age. However I reached the road at the point where I just had to cross to continue on the footpath and so I decided not to walk down the road for over 400m to find the stone.

I didn’t climb the optional Fan Nedd but did reach the summit of Fan Gyhirych at the same time as a faster couple – the man carrying what looked like a heavy Army surplus rucksack and the woman carrying very little. Perhaps I need to find a porter!

I descended heading south and then south east. My guide book suggested getting down on any convenient line on that side of the mountain and I could see that I needed to reach a track. My route would have cut a corner but unfortunately the terrain became uncrossable – fences and old quarries. hence I had to regain some height to walk round and reach the track. This was time consuming and irritating.

However once on the track, I made good progress along what were old tramway tracks and through a nature reserve almost all the way to my destination near Glyntawe.

I turned out to be the sole camper at Tafarn Y Garreg camping across the road from the pub. Unfortunately the pub wasn’t open the night I visited and I had to cross the road to access the water tap and toilet. However it was quiet which suited me. I was in bed and asleep early so I was ready to get up at first light and be on my way by 06.30am the next morning.

It was an amazing morning with some early morning mist that was quick to dissipate. My onward path was adjacent to the campsite and after an initial tough, steep climb I reached the ridge. It was truly awesome and very easy to follow the east edge of the ridge with phenomenal views into and across the valley.

At the summit of Fan Hir, the lake – Llyn y Fan Fawr came into view. I could see a couple of tents near the lake – looked like an amazing place to wild camp.

The path descended to Bwlch Giedd – there’s a path to here from the lake below.

I climbed again to reach the trig point at the summit of Fan Brycheiniog (802m), the highest point in the Bannau Brycheiniog.

From Fan Brycheiniog I descended to the pass then headed up a further steep slope to the summit of Picws Du (749m), the second highest point in the Bannau Brycheiniog. There are views to Llyn y Fan Fach.

I continued to Waun Lefrith along the top of the ridge, where I spotted a couple of other walkers in the distance – the first people I had seen all morning. There followed a descent to Blaenau. This was a magnificent range of hills and I had really enjoyed walking over them.

I followed a very quiet minor road towards Llanddeusant and then turned off along a footpath just before reaching the village. Unfortunately it took me what appeared to be a very long time to walk a relatively short distance with some parts overgrown, unclear signs showing where the path should be and multiple gates and stiles. It felt very frustrating, having enjoyed the excellent ridge walk, to be struggling on tracks and paths along sides of fields.

Eventually I arrived on a minor road but soon left it to walk on open moorland over Fedw Fawr where there were views of the Usk Reservoir then followed a path passing some Highland cattle and eventually reached a minor road.

The route continued on a very quiet road to Myddfai which I discovered from its sign is “Home of the Physicians”. Unfortunately it was almost 4pm so the café at the community centre would have been about to close. I could see that the very quiet road that I was following would take me all the way to my destination for the day at Llandovery. Having struggled earlier, I wasn’t really keen on traversing what appeared to be more farmland and a potentially fiddly network of paths with multiple gates. Hence I decided to continue on the road. I was caught by a cyclist who got off and walked as there was a hill. He turned out to have been born in Myddfai then moved away but he didn’t know why it was billed as “Home of the Physicians”. The company up the hill certainly helped my pace.

I’ve now discovered that “The Physicians” were a dynasty of medics who lived in the parish of Myddfai from the 13th century when folklore tells that Rhiwallon the Physician and his three sons were doctors to Rhys Gryg, prince of Deheubarth. It was said that they treated Rhys when he was wounded in battle near Carmarthen in 1234, but he died of his wounds shortly afterwards at Llandeilo. The family are supposed to have continued to follow the profession in the direct male line until 1739, when John Jones, the last of the line of physicians, died.

Llandovery is a historic town and I was fortunate to be staying in the Castle Hotel, adjacent to the castle ruins. I definitely recommend the hotel – very helpful staff and pleasant rooms https://castle-hotel-llandovery.co.uk/. After four nights camping, I was ready for a good sort out of my rucksack, a bit of clothes washing and to make sure everything was well dried out. I was also able to replenish my dwindling food supplies at the well-stocked Co-Op.

I made the most of my hotel stay and didn’t set out until 09.30 the next morning after my large cooked breakfast when I chatted with some people including an RSPB worker who were about to head off to the Elan valley looking at wildlife and conservation issues.

I looked at the route and realised that the highlight was likely to be the second half of the walk when I would be walking up the Doethie Valley. The mountaineer and travel writer Jim Perrin described the valley as being ‘ a high contender for the most beautiful in Wales’. After my experiences the previous day, I decided to omit some of what appeared to be more walking through pastures and farmland in favour of what would be a faster walk along a quiet looking country lane.

Map 147 – Rhandimyrwyn Bridge to Devil’s Bridge

Concentrating my efforts on the second half of the day turned out to be a positive decision. I was tempted by the sight of a lovely rural pub that served food as I passed through the village of Rhandimwyn. However I resisted as I was keen to reach the beautiful valley and linger on that section of the walk. I did find a memorial seat with view at the side of the lane soon after where I enjoyed eating the food from my rucksack and also had a long chat with a local lady who was out exercising her arthritic knee.

Soon after this I crossed the river and then joined a riverside path. This path / track continued up the incredibly scenic and picturesque Doethie Valley all the way to my destination at Ty’n-y-cornel Hostel. I was amazed and impressed by the awesome interlocking spurs of the river valley.

I met a few people walking towards me who were completing a circular day walk incorporating the most remote chapel in Wales – Soar y Mynydd, a Calvinist Methodist Chapel. The sheer beauty of this walk was emphasised in the wonderful dry, sunny and warm weather.

Eventually I spotted an isolated building further up the valley. This was my destination and was as remote, scenic and quiet as I had hoped. It is the most remote hostel in Wales and is owned and run by the Elenydd Wilderness Hostels Trust. There’s a bench dedicated to Tony Drake outside what was stated to be his favourite hostel. Tony not only devised, developed and oversaw the Cambrian Way route , but was footpath secretary to Gloucestershire Ramblers for fifty seven years, a major contributor to the creation of the Cotswold Way (now a National Trail) and an active member and volunteer for the Youth Hostels Association.

Janet, who takes bookings for the hostels had already been in touch to remind me of the beauty of the Doethie Valley and to tell me that I would be welcomed by Kevin, who was the volunteer warden for that week. Indeed when I arrived Kevin offered a warm welcome and even knew that my walk had been postponed by almost two years after my cancellation in 2022 following my ankle fracture. There was just one other guest, Samuel, from Switzerland who had started his Cambrian Way journey from Conwy and was walking to Cardiff. We had an amazing and convivial evening sitting outside on the raised area in front of the hostel sharing stories of our walking exploits. Samuel told me about his epic seven month adventure walking from Scotland to the south coast of England and then across Western Europe. On his current journey he was travelling extremely lightly with only a very light cape arrangement and a single trekking pole to use as shelter on camping nights; however just like me he was finding the timings in the Cicerone Guide to be optimistic. There was plenty of space in the hostel but I opted to camp in the garden as planned particularly given the good weather. Sadly I had no time to explore the many interesting books in the hostel common room. This is definitely an iconic place to stay on the Cambrian Way – very highly recommended by me https://www.elenydd-hostels.co.uk/en/our/tyn-cornel .

The next morning, I was up early to eat breakfast and pack. Samuel was up soon after and with no tent to pack was away just before me. I said my thanks and good bye to Kevin just after 07.30am – with no further bookings that week he just had to wait in each day from 5pm to greet any unbooked visitors. I even received a voucher for a half price return visit – valid from one month after to thirteen months after my current stay. The good weather was continuing.

Once I left the main track, the paths over the moorland were minimal. Samuel had warned me about treacherously deep bogs, but I avoided these mainly by taking a line with excellent views along the relatively dry ridge.

The route led to a small road and then past a farm and over further moorland. The path was virtually non existent but eventually I reached a track which I had to leave soon after to reach Garn Gron with summit trig point and cairn. There were superb views both south over the Brecons and north to Pumlumon. it was already lunch time and a good place for a break.

After lunch, the onward path was just as elusive although I crossed a fence line at the right point (there was a rare way-marker) and entered the woods at the correct point (another way-marker). It’s really hard work walking over this terrain with a big pack!

I descended through the woods, where there was a better track and path and eventually reached Strata Florida Abbey. After all the yomping across almost pathless moorland, I was looking forward to a rest and refreshment. Unfortunately the visitor centre and café were closed even though according to the signage they should have been open. The silver lining was that admission to the Cistercian Abbey ruins and grounds was free and I sat on a welcome bench in the grounds drinking my water and eating some snacks, before briefly strolling round this historic site. In 1401, the abbey was taken by Henry IV and used as a military base against Welsh rebel forces led by Owain Glyndwr. After the rebellion, it was returned to the monks but was dissolved by Henry VIII in 1539.

I continued on a minor road, leading only to sewage works, a few houses and a small car park before reaching an uphill track. I was feeling very tired and was delighted to spot a sign and a bench commemorating the approximate half way point of the Cambrian Way. Any excuse for a rest so I slumped on the bench and gulped the last of the water in my flask – I had planned to top up my water at the abbey café. The first person I had seen on my entire walk that day apart from a few other visitors at the abbey, approached walking downhill and carrying a light looking day rucksack. He informed me rather disparagingly that I had a lot more climbing to do up that hill. I explained that I was resting at the half way point of my long trek but he seemed not to understand that this seat was the half way point for a multi day trail and informed me of a pleasant circular stroll to return to the road from where I had walked! I just left it at that apart from saying that I wasn’t going to walk back that way!

Soon I resumed my climb and found a stream to refill my water bottles. Eventually I reached Llyn Egnant – there was still some more uphill along the track. I reached an extremely pot-holed road and then a track which would lead me to Claerddu Bothy.

The bothy was deserted apart from the sheep in the garden. It was unlocked so I had a look round. It even has a water tap and a flush toilet. There’s lots of graffiti too – seems to be a popular overnight stop for D of E expeditions. I found it a bit dark and gloomy plus I was concerned about the possibility of hearing mice scurrying around at night so I decided to pitch my tent in the bothy garden – not really what the sheep wanted so they all left.

I think I was asleep before 9pm. I woke later in the night and peered out of my tent – the sky was clear and I could see more stars than I ever remember seeing before. Definitely there’s no light pollution here!

I woke with the dawn chorus and was up and away by 07.30am. The track to follow initially was in no doubt as there was a Cambrian Way sign a few feet away from my tent. The Way passes through the garden of the bothy. It was yet another warm and sunny day! The walk over moorland and climb up Domen Milwyn was more straightforward than I had expected. The bonus was outstanding views from a gloriously isolated point.

The path down to Tynewydd Farm was initially difficult to find, subsequently a track but then harder to follow through some sheep pastures.

Near the small and isolated village of Cwmstwyth, I spotted many motorcyclists enjoying riding along the undulating and challenging terrain.

The route continued on paths through a forest before emerging at The Arch. The arch was built in 1810 as gateway to the Hafod Estate to mark the Golden Jubilee of King George III and the road used to run through it. However the road has been widened and diverted past the arch which now stands incongruously separate. The path onward was almost flat, with good views and then to Devil’s Bridge.

Map 135 – Overlaps 147 Strata Florida Abbey to Devil’s Bridge then continues to south end of Miynydd y Cemmaes wind farm

I contributed to the roaring trade at the “The Two Hoots café” (it included hordes of bikers) and was able to connect to wi fi to check that I would be able to buy food in Ponterwyd (Saturday night so risk of early closing on Saturday and late / no opening on Sunday); fortunately for me the shop would be open to 10pm and even open early on Sunday morning. However I also had a message from my accommodation at Y Star, Dylife for Sunday night – it’s no longer self-catering but can provide evening dinner and morning breakfast for an additional fee but please respond before Saturday morning. I sent a belated affirmative reply for dinner but will need to leave early so hope there’s a kettle in the room so I can prepare my own breakfast.

I found but then soon lost the path from Devil’s Bridge and wasted time climbing a steep valley side before realising I should be in the valley. I spotted one of the steam trains on the railway line.

There was an enormous hill to climb through a wood. it seemed to be never ending. Having reached the top, there was a gate; I opened it and almost too late realised there were no hinges on the other side and it almost fell on top of me.

Passing through Ystumtuen, a friendly local man offered me a water to-up – ok today thanks. He proceeded to ask if I had seen the Northern Lights the previous night! How disappointing – I was probably in one of the darkest parts of Wales and I must have slept through it all, just waking later and admiring the stars. It had been one of the best displays ever seen in the area and visible from relatively early on during darkness.

I thought that I had a straightforward walk from here – I should have been wiser by now: this is the Cambrian Way! I climbed past a quarry and reached an incredibly overgrown path with some “mad” sheep who seemed intent on pursuing me.

Eventually I arrived at some open fields but here there was the potentially greater danger of cattle. However I made my way past them keeping as clear as I could, then passed through a farmyard where fortunately the barking dogs were safely chained. The track from the farm emerged right next to the George Borrow Hotel where I was booked to stay. George Borrow was a nineteenth century travel writer and his works include “Wild Wales”. He undertook walks of several hundred miles in England, Wales, Scotland, Ireland and the Isle of Man. Unfortunately the record of these tours has only partly survived and Wild Wales is the only complete work covering this activity.

Once more, I discovered that I had managed to book a fine hotel with pleasant rooms, friendly staff and good food. Most of the other guests seemed to be very friendly motor bikers and I struck up conversation with one – it turned out he came from Sidmouth and is married to a retired district nurse with whom I possibly worked in the past – what a Small World this can be!

As thunder and lightning was forecast from 2pm, it was important for me to leave early the next day and have completed the section on high ground over Pumlumon by early afternoon. The earliest breakfast was at 07.45 but, despite not being served very quickly, I was out of the hotel by 08.30am. Fortunately I had already restocked my food the previous evening.

After an initial walk on quieter roads and footpaths to avoid a long stretch along the busy A44, I followed a steeply rising path which climbed relentlessly to reach eventually the summit of Pen Pumlumon Fawr. Unusually the path was easier to follow than described in the Cicerone Guide and I was at the summit three hours after leaving the hotel. Initially I was alone but then joined by two men on a day walk, trekking to the source of the Severn.

I enjoyed a pleasant ridge walk passing near the source of the River Wye as well as that of the Severn.

The weather continued to look good but I was aware of the adverse weather forecast. Fortunately I was off the top as dark clouds rolled in, the rain started and I could hear thunder in the distance. As the storm broke I was on a large expanse of open moorland approaching Bugeilyn Lake. As I approached the north end of the lake, I saw a fork of lightning on open ground to my left. This was a bit close for comfort. However I managed to reach a fishing hut near the lake where a family who had been fishing from the lakeside were sheltering. I was glad to join them.

Soon afterwards the thunder abated so I thanked the family for allowing me to share the shelter and proceeded on to reach part of Glyndwr’s Way. I had misremembered this part of Glyndwr’s Way which I had thought wasn’t far or hilly. It seemed a long way before I arrived at Dylife.

I was given a warm welcome. The owners had bought Y Star in 2021 and are gradually renovating it, hence the recent change from self-catering to catered. They were unconcerned that my response about dining had been late so I enjoyed an excellent meal later in the evening. My room was superb and clearly newly refurbished – I’m sure it was all worth more than I had paid. It’s an ideal place to stay, right on the Cambrian Way Route. They are also hoping to reopen the pub in the future. Another overnight stay to recommend!

The next section was just over twenty miles of walking so I had an early breakfast in my room. A lot of the walk was over grass covered hills and there were also sections of road walking. I became very disoriented near the wind farm especially when my compass seemed to be affected by the turbines. There were signs suggesting that access wasn’t permitted but I walked past a few groups of workers and wasn’t stopped. The weather became dull and rainy most of the afternoon.

Map 124 – Miynydd y Cemmaes wind farm to summit of Moelwyn Mawr

Walking through the wind farm was straightforward – it could have given fine views into the Dovey valley, but the weather wasn’t allowing this. The route after the windfarm was more difficult and the state of the path including many boggy sections made for slow progress. It also seemed very circuitous but the Cicerone Guide explained that any apparent shortcuts across pathless land would be slow and energy sapping. Eventually I could see below me the uninhabited farm buildings at Craig-For. From here the route was much easier to follow with defined tracks and paths all the way to Mallwyd.

It had been a long day for me and I had struggled with some of the route finding and the wind and rain during most of the afternoon. I was delighted that having arrived at Mallwyd it was very easy to find The Brigands Inn where I was booked to stay. I received a warm welcome. My room was superb and I was delighted to be able to soak in a hot bath before enjoying an excellent meal. It was more expensive than anywhere else I stayed on this expedition but definitely worth the extra money. Part of the Inn dates back to the fifteenth century and is reputed to have been the meeting place of the notorious ‘Redheaded Brigands of Mawddwy’. if I thought dinner was excellent, breakfast was even better – lots of different fruits and an amazing cooked course – sourdough bread, poached egg and avocado. https://www.brigandsinn.com/ .

Breakfast was from 08.00am so it was 08.45 before I left. However I just had 15 miles or so to walk.

All started well until I lost the path and resorted to scrambling up a steep hillside. I re-found the path but struggled again to find the way up through a disused quarry. However having negotiated this, I enjoyed some excellent views. Fighter aircraft sporadically zoomed through the valley in pairs.

Having reached the 478m summit at Foel Dinas, the route descended before making an arduous and energy sapping ascent. There followed a superb ridge walk with steep cliffs and wonderful views to my right. I reached the high point of this stage Maen Du, at 674m giving panoramic views. The dramatic scenery continued to Craig Portas.

The onward route was difficult to follow but eventually I was scrambling up Waun-oer (670m) followed by some further magnificent ridge walking.

Eventually the route left the ridge to proceed down the hillside and then meet the A487 road. The walk had taken longer than I had expected. I followed the busy road before turning off on a bridleway parallel to the road. I was concerned to meet a cow on the bridle path but fortunately she seemed even more perturbed than me and after keeping well ahead and proceeding in the same direction as me she crossed the stream and trotted up the mountainside.

Cwmrhwyddfor Farm campsite didn’t seem to have changed much since I was there thirty eight years ago – I stayed with my husband although at that time we were just engaged. I remember that it rained all week so I was in better luck this time. The only difference is that the field where we camped is just for caravans now and I camped this time in a higher field much nearer to the facilities block. The farmer was extremely pleasant about my rather late arrival – 7pm. it turned out that the cow belonged to him – but he explained that she is safe and knows her way around.

I was certainly ready for my meal and an early night so I could make a prompt start to climb Cadair Idris the next day. Despite the magnificent ridge walking, I had only seen two other walkers all day but I was sure it would be much more busy on Cadair Idris.

Rather than retrace my steps to the head of Bwlch Llyn Bach, I opted the next day for the alternative southern ascent of Cadair Idris. The path was clear but I ascended slowly, conserving my energy. I was soon overtaken by a strong walker carrying very little – he was walking up to continue with some path repairs and development.

Later as I climbed, I enjoyed superb views of Llyn Cau. I arrived on the top of Craig Cwm Amarch – from below this had appeared to be the summit. However the summit was still over a kilometre away horizontally and over 100m higher; carrying my heavy pack this was a further hour to walk.

At the true summit, I was amply rewarded with awesome 360 degree views, very different from the murky mist I remembered from thirty eight years ago. As I had suspected, the summit was busy – there seemed to be more people taking routes up other than the one I had walked. A large group of young people each carrying identical large dark blue rucksacks passed by just below the summit.

Soon I stopped for lunch before continuing my descent on to the relatively busy Pony Path. However I wasn’t on this path for long as my route went further along a quieter ridge with more good views.

Unfortunately when I did start descending in earnest, the path was difficult and poorly defined. Having reached a minor road, I decided to cut a corner from the official route, following a minor road and then a track used as a footpath. Yet again I was running behind time!

Eventually I reached the Mawddach Estuary and the huge recently reopened Barmouth Bridge. At 699m long, it is the longest wooden viaduct in Wales and one of the oldest in regular use in Britain.

As I walked towards the town centre, I spotted the onward footpath steps for the Cambrian Way. I stopped at Co-Op next to Barmouth Station to replenish my food supplies. It seemed a long walk from there to my booked campsite at Hendre Mynach and I was pleased I wouldn’t have to walk back down to buy food. I’d arrived at the campsite just before 6pm and the warden was waiting for me (last booking to arrive!). The facilities were good but for some reason although I was one of the few people not in a caravan or camper van, my pitch was located far from the facilities (there were lots of vacant pitches too).

My plans for the next day were ambitious. Although the distance is only fourteen miles, there is 1690m of ascent and warnings of steep, rocky terrain, smooth slippery rocks and protruding stones hidden by heather on the remote and relatively little-walked Rhinogs. The recommendation is only to attempt the walk in good weather. Afterwards, a Snowdonia National Park Warden told me that the same walk had taken him thirteen hours despite only carrying a day rucksack. Unfortunately the forecast for the next day was of thunderstorms and heavy rain from 2pm. I reconsidered my plans and made the decision to take my bad weather route along the coast path to Shell Island and then along minor roads to my planned camp site at Cwm Bychan.

I didn’t need to start early for my alternative walk. When I woke, the weather appeared to be perfect. Another “camper” enquired about my plans and was surprised that I had decided to follow my “bad weather” route as he was sure the weather was set fair. However, I had made the decision in light of the forecast and besides that I had now left it too late in the day to start the mountain route.

I actually enjoyed the coast walk, passing many caravan and camping sites. I even bought some extra food for lunch including an ice cream from a campsite shop. The best part of the walk was a long stretch along an almost deserted beach to the idyllic Shell Island. The campsite there is huge and was almost empty. However I understand it gets full during sunny weekends and school holidays. I vowed to return and camp there in the future.

I turned inland to follow a causeway that is covered by the sea at high tide. That was when I heard the unmistakable sound of thunder from the mountainous area ahead of me. My caution had been justified as the Rhinogs would have been a very dangerous place to be during an electric storm. Later in my walk I met a campsite warden who had been on Cadair Idris when the storm broke that day and she recounted a tale of a very rapid and scary descent – not something that would have been easy for me carrying such a heavy backpacking rucksack.

As I reached Llanbedr village, the rain started to pour. I even considered checking whether there was a room available at one of the hotels or B+Bs in the village. However that would have put me in the wrong place for the walk the next day. In the end I persisted with a walk which was mainly uphill and in driving rain. However I was safe on a lane with very little traffic and there was no lightning nearby. I’m sure it was more than the five miles stated on the sign at Llanbedr to the Cwm Bychan farm camping area.

The rain was continuing to descend in sheets when I reached the basic campsite and the entire ground seemed waterlogged. There was a tent with motorcycle and two motorhomes, one with an additional tent, already on the site. I walked round the area and tried to find the least wet place to pitch my tent. I’m sure I got it erected in record time and somehow managed to leave my rucksack cover, waterproofs, tent bags, gaiters and boots in the vestibule then dive into a tent that was almost dry inside.

I gave up on the thought that the rain would stop that evening and ate all of my dinner ingredients that didn’t need cooking. It was a few hours later that the rain went off a bit. I decided to boil my water for a hot drink and a mix of couscous and cup-a-soup, all that remained of my dinner.

Surprisingly, I slept well and kept reasonably dry and definitely warm. I woke to a dry morning but the midges did too. I made full use of my insect repellent and head net but decided to evacuate the site and walk up into the mountains before making breakfast but remembered to leave a £5 note in the honesty box.

The path from Cwm Bychan Farm was signed, which was promising. However the path itself seemed to fizzle out to nothing after four or five metres. The sign had exhorted walkers to keep to the path! I would if there was one! I used my Satmap to navigate on to where the path was meant to be a bit higher up the mountain. I found a path. This was a convenient spot to stop for breakfast and to start trying to dry my tent and air my sleeping bag.

As I cooked and ate breakfast, clouds seemed to gather on Clip, the mountain which was on my route. I decided not to climb to the top of the mountains but instead followed the lower path below the mountain tops. The Cicerone Guide mentions challenging walking with scrambling and little evidence that walkers have frequented the ground between rocks.

Even on the lower path, I managed to lose my way once. The path was stony and difficult to walk along. Eventually , below the crags of Craig Ddrwg, I reached a fence line which marked my onward route.

I passed a derelict water mill and then a farm with a track to the road.

I could see the reservoir Llyn Trawsfynydd and a float plane which flew above the reservoir before cutting its engines and gliding to land on the water.

I stopped for lunch near a cattle grid on the road and hung my tent to dry on a fence while eating lunch. The road was part of a cycle route with very little other traffic. I passed one of the headquarters for the mountain rescue team.

The cycle route turned off the road – that was my route too. The path was easy to follow and went over the dam. The old twin reactor magnox nuclear power station still towers over the lake. Electricity generation ceased in 1991 and defueling by 1997 but the buildings are still being decommissioned. the lake was the source of cooling water for the nuclear power station. Water from the lake is used nowadays for hydroelectric power generation.

Soon after crossing the dam, my route turned off on paths through a forest before I reached small lanes leading to Maentwrog.

My final destination was past the village. Plas Tan-y-Bwlch has been the Snowdonia National Park Centre since the mid 1970s. It is an imposing building set in 100 acres of gardens, woodland and lakes overlooking the valley of the River Dwyryd. Prior to being bought by the National Park it was the Welsh home of the Oakeley family, important slate quarry and land owners in the area as well as being one of the wealthiest families in North Wales. I was very fortunate to have an opportunity to book a stay in this magnificent and iconic centre https://snowdonia.gov.wales/visit/plas-tan-y-bwlch/accommodation/. The very helpful receptionist explained that breakfast would be continental as the chef wasn’t there – this was wonderful news for me as it meant I could take my breakfast bag from the accessible fridge as early as I wanted in the morning. I had learned from experience that the 13.5 mile walk over the mountains to Beddgelert was liable to take considerably longer than the almost nine hours suggested in the Cicerone Guide and I wanted to arrive before the food shop in Beddgelert closed.

The house even has a wonderful pub just at the end of its driveway with extremely friendly staff, one of whom tried to teach me some Welsh, and great food: https://oakeleyarms.co.uk/the-oakeley-arms-history/.

Dawn was beautiful with the mist just clearing and a superb sunrise seen from my room as I ate breakfast. I left at 06.00am to enjoy the fresh morning air. Initially the route was uphill through a country park with well defined paths and then close to the line of the Ffestiniog Railway, initially built to transport slate. There were fine views from a viewpoint with topograph above Ddualllt Station.

I had some path finding difficulties but eventually arrived at the col with a clear but steep and rocky path up to the trig point on Moelwyn Mawr (770m). I met two women coming the opposite way and looking poorly equipped who asked me the way over the mountain!

Map 115 – Moelwyn Mawr summit to Conwy

The route off Moelwyn Mawr was straightforward. There followed a difficult but fascinating traverse through the old slate quarries with their numerous ruined buildings. The problem was the abundance of paths and knowing which one was best to follow.

I stopped for lunch around 1pm, seven hours after the start of my walk, having only completed about half the distance. This was concerning as campsite reception at the site just the far side of Beddgelert closed at 7pm. I had some phone signal and contacted the site to explain – they were very understanding but actually thought I would arrive in time (and told me to call them on arrival if not).

Once I was on the ridge to climb Cnicht, the wayfinding issue eased. I had seen more people but was still amazed to see how many were sunbathing on the summit. I think they had climbed from the direction of my descent.

The descent was initially quite difficult with some downward scrambling. I think I was fortuitous in selecting my route as others carrying less than me seemed to be struggling on some of the slabs.

After this difficult section, the descent was gradual down the ridge and I made good progress, even overtaking other walkers, to emerge on a lane about 2km from Nantmor. This was when I realised that not only should I arrive at the campsite before 7pm but I also had a chance of arriving at Beddgelert to buy food from the shop Emrys House in Beddgelert before it closed at 6.15pm and that I might even get to Crib Goch Outdoor to buy some dried camping food before I thought it closed at 5.30pm.

I walked as fast as I could along the road before turning off on a path to Pont Aberglaslyn and the beautiful Pass of Aberglaslyn. The way through the pass was frustratingly rocky and unfortunately I didn’t spend much time admiring the scenery.

I’ve visited Gelert’s Grave previously so I walked as fast as I could to the village. Crib Goch Outdoor had an open sign in the door but I had to wait for a motorcyclist to pass before I could cross the road. By then the shop door was locked and the sign on the door read “closed”. I was very lucky as the kind shopkeeper unlocked the shop after seeing me arrive. He told me to take my time even when he realised that all I wanted to buy was food – so I bought breakfasts as well as dinners for my remaining two nights (I already had food for the night at Beddgelert in case I had arrived too late). The shop actually closes flexibly after 5pm once there seems to be no more custom – and I had arrived at about 5.10pm. I definitely recommend this shop! https://www.beddgelerttourism.com/Shops/Crib-Goch-Outdoor-World/ and also recommend Emrys House which had a great range of foods and many delicious options including dried pineapple and other fruits plus local specialities like Welsh cakes which aren’t available in the usual convenience stores https://www.beddgelerttourism.com/Shops/Emrys-House/

All that remained was a short walk along the riverside to the back entrance of Cae Du campsite https://www.caeducampsite.co.uk/ Reception is really designed for people entering through the front entrance so I walked round much of the site before finding the proper entrance. The staff are incredibly friendly and the facilities wonderful, all in a superb location. There’s even a spacious designated area for backpackers to pitch.

Having completed my food shopping the previous afternoon, I didn’t need to return to Beddgelert. The back entrance of the campsite is on the Cambrian Way Route. I didn’t leave until 09.00am so it was a relaxed start, with an initial flat walk past the copper mines and round a lake. I arrived at the start of the Watkin Path at 10am, by which time car parking for day trippers appeared to be at a premium. There was a big sign at the start but that didn’t stop a young couple carrying remarkably little (did they even have waterproofs?) asking me “Is this the way to Snowdonia?”. I was sure they really meant “Snowdon” but didn’t want to point that out; however I did suggest that it wasn’t a good idea to walk up without a map and compass – the response was that they had their phones!

Given their light loads I let them pass me but soon overtook as they had a snack stop after no more than a hundred metres. However they did overtake again. They were last seen by me heading up the main Watkin path as I turned off to follow the less frequented South Ridge route. I’d already seen some very pleasant teenagers who appeared to be working well in teams “running” down the mountain. Soon after turning off I met their teachers who explained that it was an adventure challenge / competition for Round Square Schools – with four schools competing including Gordonstoun.

Soon after that I checked my paper map and Satmap – I seemed to have strayed off the route on the map, but the path was very clear and I am sure it had been a new realignment since the map was surveyed.

Not long after I reached what looked to be a short scramble but was uncertain of the precise route. I waited for a following group. They weren’t sure either so I still ended up climbing first. However there were plenty of hand and foot holds and it wasn’t as difficult as it looked. I reached the summit of Allt Maenderyn and decided to stop there for lunch where there were good views. Someone descending called out that I was clearly trying to avoid the gulls eating my lunch on the summit!

Eventually I reached the short but narrow part of the ridge at Bwlch Main. It wasn’t as narrow or precarious as I had feared!

The visitor centre came into sight and I had a final push for the summit. A woman sitting near the visitor centre shouted out to me “you’re not meant to bring the kitchen sink”. I called back that I was on a three week trek, not a day walk – which shut her up.

It was coming up to 3pm, by chance the time that a friend from church would be reaffirming her baptism by total immersion in the sea near Exmouth. This was an unplanned coincidence and I managed even near the summit of Snowdon to find a quiet spot to reflect on this.

Many people were queueing to climb a viewing platform up spiral steps to take selfies backed by the amazing panoramic views. Personally I was satisfied with reaching the natural summit where I lingered for almost an hour.

I opted to descend fully on the Pyg Track which turned out to be long, arduous and rocky in places. The Miners’ Track is longer but I think would have been easier and quicker.

I met a Cambrian Way walker on his second day out from Conwy – mutual recognition that we were carrying more than anyone else! I also spotted a four year old boy determinedly trudging to the summit (his mother explained that it was taking a long time and they would descend by train!). An elderly lady together with a middle aged but clearly anxious lady were ascending aided by several younger friends or relatives – they were clearly doing the climb for a special reason and were nearly there.

It was 7pm before I booked in to the Youth Hostel at Pen-y-Pass, where it costs more to park a car overnight in the car park opposite than to sleep in a dormitory for the night. Actually I had booked a private room which turned out to be a dormitory with three bunks very conveniently close to the self catering kitchen. I still can’t get used to staying in hostels and buying a pint of beer from the bar or not having to complete a task in the morning before leaving…. How things have changed. Moreover I think I was one of the few guests staying there without a car.

I was glad that I had changed my plans and not tried to walk across the Glyders to Idwal Cottage on the same day as climbing Snowdon. Unfortunately the YHA at Idwal Cottage had no vacancies the next day even for camping so I had decided to walk instead to Gwern Gof Uchaf campsite at the base of Tryfan.

The walk started well and I made reasonable progress to reach Glyder Fawr, helped by some red paint marks showing the route on a few rocks, stopping for a break just prior to the summit, where there were superb views of Snowdon.

Once at the summit I had awesome views towards Pen yr Ole Wen where I would be heading the next day. I had already met a couple of walkers and sensed that everyone was much better equipped than most people I had seen the previous day on Snowdon.

I felt positive as I turned towards Glyder Fach and enjoyed the views of the unusual rocky outcrops.

However, I was drawn into climbing northwards too soon, following some other walkers. It was all too much scrambling for me to manage so I retreated and then discovered a path with much less scrambling to reach the wide stony plateau and the Cantilever Stone on Glyder Fach. Some friendly walkers tried to persuade me to walk out on to the stone, which they had already done, but I wasn’t keen to put myself in a precarious situation.

The time had really ticked along as I had looked at the options for getting to Glyder Fach so it was definitely lunch time.

I took a long time too in descending the east slopes of Glyder Fach and then realised that I had quite an ascent if I was to follow the Cambrian Way route to the wall at Bwlch Tryfan. I realised that despite this being a “short” day, I was running out of time and probably didn’t have sufficient time and energy to walk to Idwal Cottage then round the north edge of Llyn Ogwen as I had planned. I spotted a route that would take me east of Tryfan and descend directly to my planned campsite and this seemed a better option.

As I descended I saw a helicopter circulating Tryfan and heard some whistles and voices from that direction so I hoped that there wasn’t anyone there in serious trouble.

There were only two other tents at the campsite and we were all very separated. I pitched next to a picnic table. The overnight charge of £10 seemed very reasonable especially as there were free showers https://www.tryfanwales.co.uk/.

I turned in early as I planned a prompt start next day and also the midges had arrived. However a helicopter flew and hovered around Tryfan soon after I retreated to my tent and then returned again after dark. I hoped again that there wasn’t a serious incident on the mountain.

My final day was predicted in the Cicerone Guide to take 11.5 hours and as previously mentioned these times appear to be optimistic with no allowance for difficult ground or for navigational difficulties. I had more or less decided that I would follow the first eleven miles or so and then take an easier path on small lanes and tracks to reach Conwy, particularly as there was a possibility of thunderstorms forecast for the mid to late afternoon.

I was up soon after 04.00am and started walking by 06.00am. the walk to Tal y Llyn Ogwen was straightforward and there was a clear initial path and even slabs laid to start ascending Pen yr Ole Wen. However the path appeared to come to an abrupt end. I followed some faint tracks – probably sheep tracks. my satmap showed that I needed to be higher so I managed to scramble up a steep hillside. Eventually I discovered a clear path! I’m not sure where it came from but evidently there had been a point somewhere that I should have scrambled up the rocks.

Eventually I reached the summit of Pen yr Ole Wen (978m) but it was already 09.00am and my legs were, even at this early stage of the walk, suffering after all the scrambling.

A strong looking walker carrying a small paraglider approached around the ridge. He was looking to fly down into the valley and then complete another climb and fly before the weather turned.

The onward ridge was a magnificent walk although quite stony which slowed my progress. I reached Carnedd Dafydd (1044m) by 10am. The walk on to Carnedd Llewelyn followed a ridge with further awesome views.

I eventually arrived at Carnedd Llewelyn, the highpoint of the Carneddau (1,064m) soon after 11.30.

Foel Grach, Carnedd Gwenllian and Foel Fras, where there is a trig point, followed in quick succession. I stopped for a late lunch in a shelter next to the trig point. This was the last of the 3,000 footers on the Cambrian Way.

It was odd, given that I was at a trig point, that a walker approached to ask whether I knew where we were! I gave him the grid reference and the name of the summit but he and his friend still appeared to be somewhat confused. It was pretty obvious given there was a trig point there unless they were extremely lost. Eventually, after I had checked they were aware of the thunder forecast for the afternoon, they headed off in the right direction (encouraged by orienting their map with the aid of my compass) for Carnedd Llewelyn which was where they were aiming for.

I headed off to Drum – only 770m in height so nearly all downhill. the thunder clouds seemed to be gathering behind me so rather than climbing over rough ground to Carnedd y Ddelw, I continued down the track and across open ground to a good track on the route of a Roman road. This led to a car park at the end of a minor road. I realised that I was very tired and certainly wouldn’t have managed the proper Cambrian Way route to Conwy with over 400m more of ascent even though the few claps of thunder had been in the distance and the risk seemed to have passed.

A couple of men emerged from a car in the car park asking me the way to somewhere – which turned out to be a hill fort – unfortunately I wasn’t able to find it on my map. However as I was walking down the road I saw a Snowdonia ranger van driving up to the car park and hoped the driver might be able to help (he did). I’m not sure why I looked as though I might know the answers, but I was stopped again by a young male walker who told me that he had taken four hours to walk from Conwy – “the hills are unbelievable” – and he wanted to get to some waterfalls that I had never heard of as they weren’t on my route. He appeared to be navigating using google maps on a phone! Eventually I managed to get away as the Snowdonia Ranger returned along the road and I flagged him down to try to get some help and advice for this man.

I was feeling exhausted and really needed to put all my effort into getting myself to Conwy. Fortunately I had sufficient mapping resources to plot a virtually direct route, although having descended some of the hills including 25% gradient, I have more sympathy for the young chap’s description of his route in the opposite direction.

I was extremely pleased to reach the end of my trek at Conwy Castle, from where it was a very short distance to the railway station where I arrived just after 7pm to catch a train to my overnight accommodation in Llandudno. Definitely it had been a very long and exhausting final day.

I would certainly echo the words at the end of the Cicerone Guide – “If you have completed the whole route – even if you had to miss some of it out due to bad weather or fatigue – it is time to congratulate yourself for having undertaken one of the most challenging long-distance walks in Britain.”

I felt that this walk was even more challenging than The Cape Wrath Trail. Although I realised soon after starting that a number of my days were too long, I had to keep up with my schedule as I had made overnight bookings and so needed to find “short cuts”. If I had been carrying less I would have perhaps moved more quickly and managed longer distances each day. However in some cases it was route finding and navigation that took a long time as well as opening and shutting what seemed to be hundreds of gates, the majority of which were stiff, had to be lifted because they had dropped on their hinges or were tied with many and varied knots. In retrospect, I would have definitely split the longer days.

However the joys included experiencing the beauty of the Welsh mountains especially those less well known and less frequented as well as enjoying overnight stays with wonderful hospitality in some amazing buildings and campsites.

When Tony Drake conceived the route, he selected forty-one points along the way to act as check-points. In the end I was unable to get to all the check-points, but I am content that I walked every step of the way from Cardiff Castle to Conwy Castle carrying a full backpacking rucksack containing camping and overnight equipment and that I arrived safely although exhausted at the finish.

• Cardiff Castle Yes
• Castell Coch Yes
• Mynydd Machen Yes
• Twmbarlwm Yes
• Blorenge Yes
• Sugar Loaf Yes
• Capel-y-ffin Yes
• Twmpa Yes
• Waun Fach Yes
• Pen Allt-mawr Yes
• Eglwys Faen No – needed to shorten walk
• Pen y fan Yes
• Fan Gyhirych Yes
• Fan Brycheiniog Yes
• Rhandirmwyn Bridge No – laziness! – I had walked up the road to the east and I passed within 250m of this checkpoint on a fairly flat road.
• Garn Gron Yes
• Domen Milwyn Yes
• Pontbren Pwlca Yes
• Pen Pumlumon Fawr Yes
• Dylife Yes
• Minllyn Quarry Yes
• Bwlch Siglen Yes
• Penygadair (Cadair Idris) Yes
• Barmouth Bridge Yes
• Y Llethr No – weather
• Rhinog Fach No – weather
• Rhinog Fawr No – weather
• Moel Ysgyfarnogod No – possible poor weather / concern about terrain
• Moelfryn Yes
• Moelwyn Mawr Yes
• Cnicht Yes
• Pont Aberglaslyn Yes
• Snowdon Yes
• Glyder Fawr Yes
• Glyder Fach Yes
• Tal y Llyn Ogwen Yes
• Carnedd Dafydd Yes
• Carnedd Llewelyn Yes
• Tal y Fan No – tiredness and weather forecast so found route with less ascent
• Conwy Mountain No – tiredness and weather forecast so found route with less ascent
• Conwy Castle Yes

My major omission was the Rhinogs and I am keen to return to the area to walk in this remote wilderness in better weather conditions and carrying a lighter load. I may even be able to camp at the superbly located campsite at Shell Island which I only “discovered” because of my bad weather detour. The mountains will still be there to enjoy another time.