4 May 2013: 33km. Started 08:50. Arrived 17:30.
At breakfast, I met the other interesting people staying at the same B+B. It seems a pity to find out at breakfast that there are others staying who I would have enjoyed meeting in the evening. One of the guests was walking from Edinburgh to Lindisfarne and so was about to walk much of the route in reverse that I had been on for the last few days. There was also a couple on their way to Aberdeen – the man used to run sub one hour thirty half marathons and had cycled lands End to John O’Groats unsupported in nine days , two years previously – all very impressive.
In contrast to the previous day, it was dry. However it was cold and windy – very different from the hot day only four days previously. I was soon away from West Linton, walking up a very quiet road and through a forestry estate village past a reservoir. This meant that I made excellent early progress. Pride comes before a fall and I was disappointed to see a straightforward route ahead but unfortunately a large herd of Highland cattle right on the track. I saw them from the gate and I was certainly not brave or foolish enough to pass straight through the middle of the herd. I detoured around the field boundary, which was marshy and heavy going. Once I was sure I was past where they were then I cut back up to the track.
I crossed the ridge on the Thieves Path and then came to an area where there were boards to ease passage across marshy land. The views were excellent. Sadly the boards were not in all the necessary places, including one place where I was in the bog sinking half way to my knee. This all took more time than expected. There was another hill with excellent clear views towards Edinburgh. Eventually I descended to the busy A71. It was difficult to cross but my patience paid off when there was a very long gap in the traffic in both directions and so I was able to cross safely.
Having crossed the road, I discovered a refreshment van in the car park – it is actually mentioned in the Cicerone End to End book. The time was 14:30 and he had almost closed for the day but was able and happy to serve a hot coffee. He guessed I was doing Lands End to John O’Groats – “why else would anyone be walking this way with a big rucksack?”
The route continued through a country park, along a riverside and then past a sewage plant – it’s certainly varied walking and plenty to see! Soon I was on the tow path of the Grand Union Canal – a pleasant path with occasional walkers, runners and cyclists. A contrast to the morning when I had only seen one other walker. There was an interesting large aqueduct.
Unfortunately my booked accommodation was almost two miles away from the canal. This was a long detour as I just had to walk up the road and knew I had to retrace steps and return to the canal the next day. However the small hotel was inexpensive, clean and warm as well as serving good food with no need to look for anywhere else to eat. In addition, there was a Scottish Co-op across the road, open at 08:00 on Sundays so I would be able to buy my lunch food from there the next morning.
Where's Kathryn? 