16 August 2024
The reason we were staying in Elgol was so we could take the boat to Loch Coruisk and then walk around the loch. It’s reputedly an amazing boat trip with views of the Cuillin from the sea as well as a good chance of spotting seals and porpoises, otters and dolphins in addition to a circuit walking around a magnificent freshwater loch. However the weather was so bad that even the fishing boats weren’t able to venture out so of course the boat trip was cancelled.
We arrived the day before our booked trip too early to check into what turned out to be a superb Air B+B owned and run by Jonathan an exemplary host offering incredibly good accommodation https://www.bayviewelgol.com/ I spent the time walking along the scenic clifftops towards Prince Charlie’s Cave (tide not suitable to access the cave).
The next morning the wind was certainly whistling round the bungalow and it was raining. I set out on a walk round the Elgol Peninsula, uncertain whether even this poor weather option would be possible in its entirety, as part of it was on precipitous cliff side paths. However, turning back would always be a possibility and there would be a chance of a lift if I had to return to Elgol on the road. I also wanted to descend to the area of the Spar Cave as I realised that I would be walking near it around the time that it would become potentially accessible close to low tide.
I left the main village road and turned on to the narrow unclassified lane over the moors towards Glasnakille. Normally there would be good views to Eigg and Rum. I passed a few cattle trying to shelter near the Community Shop.
Once at Glasnakille, I turned off towards the Spar Cave and took the footpath initially through a field. The path became narrow and then descended a gully towards the foreshore. There was a pair of boots placed on the pebbles. Next it was necessary to clamber over some jagged rocks. I could see that the sea was close and rough but I knew that the tide was still going out and that I had arrived earlier than the first likely time to reach the cave. I was concerned that I was probably the only person there given the windy conditions and wondered about turning back. However, moments later I spotted a man waving further along the rocks. I made my way towards him and at this point I could see the entrance to the cave.
Unfortunately reaching the cave entrance would mean balancing along a narrow rock ledge then crossing two wide gaps and climbing down a rock face and into the cave. I could see two men who were trying to do this – friends of the man who was waiting at the place where I had arrived. I knew that the predicted low tide level wasn’t very low and so this might be a day when it is more difficult to access the cave. Moreover the wind would also have an effect on the tidal levels. One of the men managed to access the cave but the other returned without getting there.
We all waited a bit longer and watched the water levels go down. The two men who had previously gone along the ledge traversed it again to see whether the man who hadn’t managed would be able to now the water level was lower. It was clearly difficult and I had realised from our conversation that these were experienced men wearing rock shoes and with careers in the outdoor tourist industry. Some more people arrived from the descent gully and decided to go further and attempt to access the cave. The man I had seen originally had definitely decided he wasn’t going to attempt it and I decided that it looked too dangerous for me. I was concerned that some of the others who were trying didn’t look particularly stable on the rocks.
Reluctantly I climbed back over the rocks, up the gully and to the road. I gather that there are amazing flowstone formations in the cave and it would be great to have another look at getting there on a lower low tide and when it’s not as windy or rainy.
I continued my walk round the peninsula along the road which soon became a track and then a path before emerging on to another minor road. The wind and rain persisted. Eventually I turned out on to the main B8083 towards Elgol but soon left that road to head over Am Mam Pass with views of the Cuillins and towards the beautiful bay at Camasunary. Despite the weather, the scenery was magnificent.
I took the path past the bothy. There was someone walking towards me and I asked him about the route. He explained that even in these conditions it was reasonably passable and the path wasn’t too narrow close to sheer cliff faces.
On this part of the walk, the views across Loch Scavaig to the Cuillin are often reckoned to be amongst the finest coastal views in the British Isles.
I descended to a bay at the foot of Glen Scaladal, crossed the bay and climbed on to a second steep and rocky cliff section before reaching the safety of a broad grassy path. There was just a gate and path between fences and another gate before I accessed the road at the top end of Elgol village. I had survived and completed the walk although I was extremely wet and muddy.
Where's Kathryn? 