Map 72: Culter Fell circular – four “Donalds” on a windy day

9 August 2024

Culter Fell summit may be “only” 748m above sea level but, as the highest hill in the area, it promised superb views. The walk I chose incorporated four Donalds (hills over 2,000 feet in the Scottish lowlands), two of which are also Fionas (previously known as Grahams which are 2,000-2,500 feet with at least 150m separation on all sides).

It was very windy, or so I thought. However, this was a calm day compared to what I would be facing over the next couple of weeks as I attempted some walks further north in Scotland. We spent a couple of nights staying in the area, conveniently near the M74, as we made our way towards the Highlands and Islands.

Clear views behind me

Almost immediately, as I left the narrow country lane south of Coulter, I was climbing on an initially distinct but soon faint and virtually non-existent path. I had good views back over the valley but visibility ahead was limited in cloud and rain.

The summit in strong wind and rain showers

I was almost blown off my feet once I reached the high point of the walk – the trig point at 748m on Culter Fell (Donald and Fiona). Moreover, the view was only intermittently and partially visible between clouds drifting in the wind.

A partial view

The chill factor was high so it wasn’t long before I left the summit, following a fence line. Navigation was easy because of the fence, even though there was no path so I had to take care with my footing to avoid bogs, holes and rocks.

Following the fence line

It remained windy but the cloud cleared as I climbed again over Moss Law (571m) and then endured another hard descent in the wind to a track at Holm Nick – where I discovered Paddington Bear sheltering.

Paddington Bear sheltering from the wind!

A further relentless ascent followed initially on the track but then over springy turf and moss to a very small cairn on Gathersnow Hill (the second Donald and Fiona). The cloud had lifted a bit and the views improved.

A short length of clear track made walking easier

I descended to find a sheltered spot for a rest and lunch before heading uphill to Hillshaw Head (a Donald). I soon descended again towards a wind farm track with huge turbines nearby, all apparently working well in the wind. The track was much easier to walk along and I compensated for some of my previous slow progress. However I was soon on pathless terrain again and battling through a cross wind to ascend Dod Hill. I even sent a text to my husband to say that I would be late arriving at the finish.

A huge wind farm and giant turbines

At this stage there were good views of the Culter Fell summit and no doubt the views from the summit would have been wonderful compared to what I had been able to see earlier in the day.

Lifting cloud and improving views

I climbed again to reach the summit of Hudderstone (the final Donald). The final descent proved to be relatively easy and I was soon on a clear old hill track. It was more sheltered and I rested for a few minutes out of the wind before descending the rest of the way to a minor road from where I could walk to my start point.

Better views in brighter weather – but more rain would arrive soon

The easier terrain towards the end of the walk meant that I was actually there five minutes before I had been due in the first place. My text message had been superfluous! There was only the single way for my husband to drive in so I set off to walk on the lane towards Coulter. Sadly this was when it rained more heavily than at any other time during the entire day. However my husband hadn’t taken my message particularly seriously and thought that I was being somewhat pessimistic so I only spent about twenty minutes walking in the rain before I saw a familiar car approaching.

This was a superb walk including the highest summit in the area and it’s surprising that I didn’t see any other walkers all day. I suspect that nearby Tinto (711m) although a little lower than Culter Fell is more popular as the route is easier to follow.

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