27 May 2023
We stayed at the very traditional Doune Braes Hotel https://www.doune-braes.co.uk/ after our excursion to Great Bernera. This put me in a good position to explore the west coast of Lewis the following day. Eileen MacDonald has been in charge for over forty years and extended a warm welcome. I hadn’t stayed there previously but had turned up wet and muddy early one morning in 2017 and been able to stay for a hearty cooked breakfast following a night wild camping nearby. My positive memory of being made to feel so welcome then was what had made me seek out the same hotel to stay overnight on this occasion.
My husband had decided that he wanted to spend the day taking artistic photos, including of the nearby Callanish Stones. hence I was able to do a one direction walk along the scenic and rocky coast with a pick-up at the far end. I was dropped off at the An Gearrannan blackhouse village. This is a typical crofting township which has been preserved as a living museum. It’s also possible to stay there in self catering apartments or the hostel. I have visited the museum part previously so made my way straight through to the coast path.
It was rainy and windy as I started my walk. There’s evidence of cliff subsidence so I was careful not to get too close to the edge.
The weather gradually improved. It remained windy but the sun came out. The path was undulating and not always clear on the ground. However the scenery is amazing – cliffs, arches, stacks, geos and even a blowhole, best appreciated at high tide.
It was even possible to walk over an arch.
In one place an impressive natural causeway separates the beach and sea from a loch.
The land is crofted. Much of it is common crofting land with many sheep feeding. The relatively poor growth of grass in this climate means that every bit of land is needed and used. As I approached the end of my walk at Bragar, I saw a crofter working hard on some traditional lazy beds.
The west side of Lewis is indeed an impressive coastline. However, I know from previous experience, that the east coast is also superb. I have memories of walking over the Bridge to Nowhere and making my way towards the Butt of Lewis, where I camped for a night, before catching a bus back to Stornoway.
There are lots of potential adventures here!
Where's Kathryn? 