6-8 March 2023
We were fortunate enough to be able to book a two night stay on board the luxurious Sea Breeze Ark 900 Boat at Thornham Marina: https://www.thornhammarina.com/stay-at-thornham/
This put us right on the path that we planned to walk round Thorney Island and we booked it for the convenient location. However our little ark moored to a pontoon proved to be a unique waterside boating retreat. It was amazing to watch the mud flats become covered with water as the tide rolled in. From the comfort of our room, we were able to watch as the trickles of water became wider and deeper until, eventually, rather than being on mudflats we were floating on water. We could see swans and wading birds through the window.
Apart from the predictable excitement of watching the tides ebb and flow, we enjoyed being in our ark. It was beautifully warm with very responsive heating / air conditioning. There are “mood lights” which can be adjusted to different colours. A wonderful breakfast hamper including a small fridge full of goodies was supplied along with a totally unexpected bottle of sparkling wine. At warmer times we would have enjoyed time sitting out on our own deck area furnished with very comfortable outdoor furniture. In fact my husband did sit out for a while in the afternoon sheltered from the wind while I walked into nearby Emsworth.
However, the real reason for our stay was to take the opportunity to walk round Thorney Island. It was a true island until 1870 when 72 hectares of mudflats were reclaimed. Nowadays, a channel called The Great Deep separates it from the mainland. Water levels in The Great Deep are controlled by sluice gates.
We decided to walk anticlockwise so initially we walked beside the creek (near high tide) towards Prinsted. We soon turned to walk in a westerly direction along small roads, tracks and paths towards the shore near Emsworth Yacht Harbour.
Having reached the west side of the peninsula, we turned to walk along a path on an embankment and over The Great Deep.
Access to the island area itself is remotely controlled by the MOD. The island was first used by the RAF in 1935 and was a fighter station and base for coastal command during the Second World War. In 1984 it was taken over by the Army as headquarters for an artillery regiment. Once through the gate, there were signs explaining that we had to keep to the path around the perimeter.
There are good views over to nearby Hayling Island. We also saw many geese, ducks, heron, seabirds and wading birds although sadly no seals.
We passed a few poignant memorials to soldiers of the Special Forces.
Despite the drizzle, we stopped for lunch looking out over the sea.
We reached a point near Pilsey Island – a tidal islet off Thorney. It’s a nature reserve without public access, due to the risks of disturbing the habitat. There were good views and, in better weather armed with binoculars, it would be worth spending some time in this area.
Eventually we reached the twelfth century church of St Nicholas next to the Thorney Island Sailing Club. The village no longer has a civilian population. However the church is used both by the military and a civilian congregation.
We reached the security gate on the east of the island and passed through uneventfully, before recrossing The Great Deep. It was only a short walk back to Sea Breeze along the path at the side of the creek.
It’s certainly a place to get away from it all without going far from “civilisation”. Apart from some people near the sailing club and church, we only saw two other people during our time within the security gated area.
Where's Kathryn? 