29 May 2013: 16km. Started 09:30. Arrived 15:00.
The owner came over to check on me soon after I got up – and it was fine to book the second night as well as leave my stuff there for the day (not visible from the road).
He was more chatty – explained that he was a Londoner but moved to Bournemouth then ten years ago bought this campsite which was completely derelict. He was an electronic engineer. His wife was currently visiting old friends in Bournemouth. He told me about the naked rambler walking past – “my wife went out to see him”. That explains the odd campsite notice: “No campfires. No sing songs. No naked rambling.”
I went first to the village shop and post office and packed two small boxes to post home as there were things I was sure I would not need. The post mistress was incredibly helpful.
In sunny weather with only a gentle breeze I took the footpath in an easterly direction towards Duncansby lighthouse. The stacks were awesome and there were lots of birds including guillemots, fulmars and possibly puffins. I had a single brief sighting of a triangular fin of an orca – when I went back to the shop the lady told me it could have been a killer whale.
I followed the path towards John O’Groats passing a geo and a hole.
After all this beautiful scenery (with very few people), the commercial area of John O’Groats seemed to be extremely crowded. I got my sheet stamped and signed the completers’ book. I looked back over the last few days of entries to see whether I could find that Tom, who I had met on the Pennine Way and last seen near Traquair, had finished. I am sure he wouldn’t have dawdled through Scotland as much as I had done. Unfortunately I could not see his name.
I bought a pizza at the café and talked to two ladies from Essex who were very disappointed with John O’Groats – they had expected to see some impressive coastal scenery. I suggested they go round to Duncansby. There were other people finishing – mainly cyclists and I didn’t see any other walkers. John O’Groats isn’t the most northerly or the most easterly but it is where the majority of people end their journey. However my plan was to walk on to the most northerly point at Dunnet Head the next day.
I bought forty postcards of Dunnet Head in anticipation ready to send to all the “private” B+Bs where I had stayed during my trek and then walked along the road back to the village shop to stock up on food for my last day.
I returned to my tent and enjoyed seeing a second amazing sunset. There was a campsite at John O’Groats but I think I would have been disappointed if I had stayed there as it looked much more busy and noisy.
Where's Kathryn? 