Day 39 Tan Hill to Middleton-in-Teesdale

22 April 2013: 28km. Started 09:40. Arrived 17:45.

I had rather a late start as breakfast was not until 08:30 and was, as predicted, rather haphazard. The weather was dry, although windy. The terrain was open moor, but thankfully not as boggy as I had expected after warnings Arthur had made when we met at Ickornshaw. Tom started after me but soon overtook, powering away using his amazingly effective technique with trekking poles.

After that I saw one walker who was going in the opposite direction but no one else all day apart from people in cars and a farmer in his farmyard near the end of the day.

The wind was initially favourable. At the three way sign, there is a choice to go to Bowes, but I continued on the main route. I crossed the impressive natural limestone bridge over the River Greta. God’s Bridge is designated as a Site of Special Scientific Interest and is reputed to be the finest example of a natural bridge over an active river to be found in the UK. Nearby there was a well preserved stone kiln.

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Soon after this I crossed the A66 through an underpass and found a relatively sheltered spot for lunch. It became even more windy and I was blown and buffeted on and off the track.

After coming off the moor at Clove Lodge, the rest of the walk was very different including a mix of passing reservoirs, sheep fields, short moorland stretches and even a nature reserve (Hannah’s Meadow). The sun came out as I descended towards Middleton-in-Teesdale, exiting on to the road through an open gate stating “Bull in field”

I walked over the bridge, past the market and down the main street of this important Pennine settlement which has origins dating back to the 12th century. It certainly caters for anything that a 21st century walker could need – a traditional hardware shop, Co-op, bookshop, clothes shop, cafes, at least two pubs / hotels, at least three churches / chapels, a bank with cashpoint machine, and a Tourist Information Office.

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I had booked to stay at what turned out to be an excellent B+B which was only just over half the price of my night at Tan Hill. It was smart, warm, dry and clean. I was offered newspaper to help dry out my boots. The room had an en-suite bath. Breakfast was available from 07:30. The welcoming and helpful owner told me to go to Co-op to buy lunch for the next day and she would put it in the fridge overnight. She also suggested “Forresters” next door for dinner – a great recommendation and I enjoyed homemade Chicken Kiev. Middleton-in-Teesdale is definitely a good place to go – a pity I only had one night and so no time to explore.