18 April 2013: 31km. Started 08:30. Arrived 17:40.
The night had been wet and windy so Arthur, as an experienced long distance trekker, had done a deal to have a cooked breakfast even though he was staying at the camp site. As I was pulling on my boots and attaching my gaiters to leave, he picked up my rucksack and threatened to look inside it to see what I had that was so heavy. I knew what some of it was – a paperback book, the Cicerone End to End book of which I really only needed a few pages, a couple of spiral ring notebooks, a heavy Leatherman pocket knife (not used at all on the entire trip), a brush for my boot cleaning and even some newspaper I had saved from earlier in case I needed to use it to stuff in my boots to dry them overnight. There was also my Coagu-Chek INR machine to enable me to test my blood clotting and adjust my warfarin dose – although that was essential as it was the only way for me to keep safely anti coagulated for such a long expedition. Having had two large DVTs in my early to mid 30s, I am resigned to the need for lifelong anticoagulation, but right from the beginning made the decision that I would not let this issue be any more than a mild inconvenience. As for the other heavy items / collection of light but unnecessary items: “every little counts” and I have learnt from experience (like most other walkers) and manage to travel lighter as the years go on.
Despite my heavy load, I soon caught up with Peter and Liz. Although camping, they were only carrying small day packs as Liz’s mother was transporting the tents and sleeping in a camper van, supporting them every step of the way. However I took a wrong turn later so they caught me and we walked together until they stopped for a break. There was a single stretch of moorland but the path mainly went through fields of sheep plus a short stretch beside a canal.
I arrived at Gargrave around 13:30. This village had everything that a long distance walker could reasonably expect – I replenished lunch and snack food from the Co-op, posted a book back home at the post office (some weight gone) and enjoyed Yorkshire fruit cake with Wensleydale cheese plus coffee at the traditional Dalesman café. The café doubled as an old fashioned sweet shop and display place for local signs and memorabilia. I signed the visitor book. By the time I had done all this, the pharmacy was open and I was even able to buy a pack of loperamide.
There was just an eight mile walk to Malham to end the day. This was mainly alongside the River Aire and over a few fairly gentle grassy hills. Half way there, I was surprised to see Peter and Liz sitting on a grassy bank – they must have overtaken me during my long break in Gargrave, although there was also a rumour about a stretch of road and a car….
There were brilliant views over Malham as I approached the village. I booked in at the friendly hostel and easily changed my pre booked breakfast to a packed lunch to be collected that evening. The next day was to be my “double” day of over thirty miles so I needed an early getaway.
I was in a dormitory with three other people but they were sympathetic about my early start and I promised to try to be quiet. One of my room mates had done LEJoG the previous year.
After dinner at the local pub, I walked up to the impressive Gordale Scar and Janet’s Foss as I realised they were off route and it would be my only chance to see them. Even though it was virtually dark by the time I got there, it was a dramatic sight which I would have been sorry to have omitted. Returning to the hostel, I was soon in bed ready to wake up early for my long day.
Where's Kathryn? 