Day 20 Lower Kilcott to Leonard Stanley

2 April 2013: 30km. Started 08:30. Arrived 16:30.

As expected, at this luxurious accommodation, I enjoyed an excellent breakfast.  It was also an opportunity to stroke the sleek and friendly black cat.  In contrast to the previous day, the weather was sunny although still with a biting cold wind.  The walking along the Cotswold ridge was pleasant and relaxed with clear views and no route finding problems.

The path dropped into Wootton under Edge where I was able to purchase a postcard to send home, having not been able to find any postcards since Dunster.  I can’t imagine how I managed to miss buying a postcard in Cheddar, even though I wasn’t in the main tourist part of the village.

I realised that, with a shorter distance to walk, I had plenty of time and enjoyed a leisurely coffee.  It’s always interesting to meet some local people and I ended up sitting at the same table as an 83 year old lady who lived in warden-controlled accommodation in the village.  She told me all about her earlier life with her husband running a bed and breakfast – repeatedly as her memory clearly wasn’t quite what it had been.

Eventually I left and the way led up hill past the famous Tyndale Monument.  This was built in 1866 to honour William Tyndale who was born nearby.  He, of course, translated the New Testament from Latin into English and in fact this was the first Bible written in the English language.  Apparently there are 121 steps to ascend the monument up a spiral staircase and brilliant views from the top.  I think it must have been closed as I am sure 121 more steps wouldn’t have put me off the climb.  However the views from ground level were wonderful anyway.

Tyndale Monument

Pride comes before a fall and, having enjoyed easy route-finding, I discovered that the onward path from the Tyndale Monument was closed due to subsidence.  However I finally puzzled out the unclear alternative route and proceeded along an undulating (well actually very hilly) path.  After a late lunch, I walked along yet another stunning ridge path where a sheep dog was trying, rather unsuccessfully, to round up all the walkers.  I walked for half a mile or so with a man who was searching out a potential walk for one of his two rambling clubs.

My path finally led past a Long Barrow (many archaeological remains on these hills) before veering off the main Cotswold Way to my overnight destination at Leonard Stanley.

Long Barrow Entrance

I was welcomed with tea and cake.  I soon discovered that my hostess had previously been nominated “Landlady of the Year”.  I saw a proud display of photographs featuring her with the Queen at a Royal Reception which she had attended in acknowledgement of this hard won accolade.

I wallowed in a huge luxurious hot bath, complete with Radox to ease my aches and pains, before enjoying an immaculately presented and cooked meal including chicken breast and Parma ham surrounded by an assortment of vegetables.  There was a bell to ring when I was ready for my sticky toffee pudding.  Coffee with fudge followed in the sitting room where my hostess regaled me with further tales of her amazing achievements as a top bed and breakfast landlady.

Her preparations for my breakfast were already in hand before bed-time – but that is a treat for tomorrow…..

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