1 April 2013: 41km. Started 08:50. Arrived 18:15.
1 April dawned with a cold day but no April showers. This was the tenth dry day in a row, compensating for the wet start to my expedition.
My route passed through the town centre. I was disappointed to notice that the “modern” 1960s town centre featuring a clock tower, library, town hall and row of shops was a heap of rubble. I just about remember the old library and the opening of the “new” library – and now the “new” centre is demolished. A salutary reminder of my own age, the “modern” becoming the “old” and the necessity for progress.
My route continued past the railway station – previously with station buildings before being downgraded to a halt for occasional trains but more recently upgraded with an enlarged car park. I saw the old Fry’s chocolate factory grounds before turning off on recently improved footpaths towards Bitton. I reached the Cotswold Way in the Lansdown area with views across to Bath. The Cotswold Way was to be my route over the next few days and I intended to follow this National Trail to its northern end at Chipping Campden. If I had walked the short distance from Bath to Lansdown too then I would have actually completed the entire Cotswold Way.
I studied a number of display boards outlining the events of the Battle of Lansdown in 1643. However nowadays the area is peaceful apart from the roar of traffic speeding along the nearby roads. Despite the low temperatures, there were many walkers along this clearly waymarked National Trail route. Without exception, they were thoughtful and polite as well as being in the main expensively dressed, no doubt reflecting the affluence of the Cotswolds. A very smartly dressed couple held a gate open for me – “It appeared futile to close it for such a short time.” – even the vocabulary of those walking hinted at their comfortable middle class origins.
Cold Ashton lived up to its name – and there were even a few flurries of snow threatening. It was too cold to linger for long. The very small church stood next to an enormous “Old Rectory”. The Rectory is where Sir Beville Grenville, a Royalist commander hailing from Cornwall, was taken and died after being wounded in the 1643 Battle of Lansdown.
The path continued around the National Trust grounds at Dyrham Park and then passed close to Dodington. I remember the days when Dodington House and grounds were open to the public, but the main attraction for me was the adventure playground set in a small woodland and including rope swings, large wooden structures with slides and tree houses. It was a real treat to go there in the 1960s but I suspect would not satisfy the higher expectations of the current time. Anyway the house and grounds (landscaped by Capability Brown) are owned by James Dyson (of cleaner and hand dryer fame) nowadays and no longer open to the public.
At Todmorden I almost went to the pub to buy a hot coffee, but was put off by the notice regarding muddy boots – walkers clearly not welcomed. The affluence of the area through which I was walking was again evident – a plethora of large detached houses with extensive grounds. There was also evidence of previous occupation including a couple of hill forts still with well-preserved banks.
Eventually I reached the edge of Upton Hawkesbury and saw a monument beyond which there was a well marked path diversion through some woods and onto a road near my destination. Upon arrival I was introduced to numerous members of the extended family, then shown to my room and private bathroom with a huge and luxurious bath. The family had agreed to serve an evening meal which turned out to be Thai cooking as one of the sons was married to a Thai lady. A warm and luxurious end to a long and cold day – but successful as I had made really good progress on my journey north.
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