21 March 2013: 36km. Started 07:20. Arrived 16:00.
I made the most of the DIY breakfast and so being able to start walking earlier. Breakfast over and I was out of the door in full waterproofs at 07:20. It was very windy and cold too I realised as I started to walk but raining too much for me to be keen to open my rucksack to retrieve a hat and gloves.
My route, for the first time, did not follow the coast path. Having come slightly inland for my accommodation, I planned to follow a succession of footpaths in order to cross the River Camel at Wadebridge and then more footpaths and roads to regain the coast path at Port Isaac. This omits a stunning stretch of coast, but I had already walked the entire South West Coast Path and adding extra unnecessary miles at this stage would not help with my overall goal.
My first forays away from the National Trail served to demonstrate the additional difficulties of selecting random footpaths on the map. I missed the first footpath I had planned to take. The second footpath proved impossible to follow – there was a footpath sign but a further sign warning of a bull in the field; as the gate was open and a farmer in the field, I walked on anyway but only to discover that the bull was in the next field. However the countryside represents the farmer’s living and my food so he really should have much more right to have his bull in a field than I have to expect to walk that way for leisure. I retreated and attempted to regain the path further on, encountering a Cornwall Council notice saying the path had been re-routed. I followed signs and discovered a pig in a field and then no path. Eventually I was back on the road only a few yards from where I had first seen the re-routed footpath sign. I did manage to find some other footpaths but sadly my first 7km of the day had taken 2.5 hours.
After this I followed a very muddy and slippery footpath until I reached the Camel Trail. I was able to make rapid progress along this combined cycle and footpath which was built on a disused railway line; it was well surfaced and flat. The rain continued but I was fortunate to find a pleasant café in Wadebridge to shelter and enjoy coffee with a sausage roll.
I had further small footpaths to navigate to my destination at Port Isaac and eventually arrived dripping wet at my destination. I enjoyed a warm welcome with a cup of tea while my hostess, a semi retired teacher, completed teaching a private literacy lesson. As I was fairly early, I booked some further accommodation – Williton and Bridgwater. All my wet overclothes were organised to get dry as quickly as possible and a venue for dinner discussed.
I walked to the pub in Port Gaverne which is just as close as Port Isaac but somewhat less expensive (“Doc Martin” means Port Isaac can charge premium prices but my B&B was not expensive as my hostess does not agree with it). The pub was great and worth the walk through the rain – welcoming real fire. A friendly couple from Guildford quizzed me about my walk and even offered me a drink. They asked about Bedruthan Steps and was Pentire Steps within walking distance from it – then realised that I was the wrong person to ask as the whole UK is within walking distance for me! Fortunately I had my head light with me as by the time I left to return to my B&B it was dark as well as pouring with rain.
I only took one photograph all day, although I do have a postcard featuring “Images of Port Isaac” in the sun. Unfortunately photographing that postcard would breach copyright…..
Where's Kathryn? 